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When Your Cat Attacks People
Now and
again your cat has taken a nip or two out of
various visitors, and he's not always
careful with his claws. But the assaults have
never been enough to worry you.
You've always enjoyed his spirit. His victims toed
the line if they made a return visit or you gave him his
own room if they were skeptical. He's always been great with your other cat
who idolizes him. But last week he drew blood from your neighbor, and it was
hours before you could approach him. You might have been his next victim if
you didn't keep your distance. Even now you're wary about his behavior. What
can you do to relieve him: of this angst and stop his behavior that once was
acceptable but now is dangerous?
People As Victims
People have
become your cat's tension targets. What
gets you is that this attack-cat behavior
is totally unpredictable. That is, sometimes you
can figure it out but at other times it seems totally out of nowhere. Your
cat is emotionally unstable, and a
particular event or person reawakens a residual
feeling of angst. He attacks, trying to get the enemy before the
enemy gets him. His behavior may appear
psychotic, but his behavior is a direct reaction to his reality. Unless his
fear eventually abates, he will continue the attack-cat mode when he feels
out of control. As I've explained earlier in this chapter, if a cat's early
kittenhood has been a traumatic one, unresolved angst or fear may surface
when he fells threatened, and his behavior will reflect his fear. The
following program will help to abate this residual angst so you and your cat
can live a healthier and happier life.
Rehab Program For Attack Cats
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Take him to the vet for a
physical exam to rule out any
medical problems. If your cat is wary of veterinary hospitals, you might
want to arrange a house call. However, schedule this visit after he has
recovered from his anxiety attack. A medical
problem may have contributed to
his aggressive outburst or could be a result of his deviant behavior.
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After your
cat has had an attack-cat episode, it is usually
best to keep him quiet so he doesn't become overstimulated. You don't want
to provoke another attack. Even if he appears calm, internally he may
still be rattled. You might want
to fix up a basket or out-of-the-way sunny spot for him to hang out in.
Sometimes a cat carrier can provide such a retreat.
But you should fill it with tissue paper or something
that he prefers to nestle in.
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If your cat has a companion,
you might want to separate them
temporarily-unless your anxious cat craves his companion's company.
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Try not to have visitors for
the next two weeks. If this isn't
possible, sequester your cat with his creature comforts when visitors drop
by. Escort him to his retreat in a protective manner so he doesn't feel
punished.
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It's not
unusual for an anxious cat to be noise sensitive.
You can modify this if you lower the volume of your telephone's ring,
doorbell, and television. You might also want to purchase an
environmental muffler, such as a
white-noise machine. Soft music or an audiotape of ocean, rain, and
other soothing sounds will add to this tranquility.
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Try to
arrange two or three daily periods of ten minutes of
quiet time with your cat. This will help to
increase his relaxation.
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As he becomes calmer, you
can allow him short play periods. Stop if he becomes too excited. Remember
to slow down your body language as you wind down his play. He is very
affected by your actions.
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As his tolerance increases,
you can give him a pinch of catnip to work out his pent-up energy. It
usually produces a mellow response. Your cat will probably become very
energetic, and the release of energy will help to relax him. I like to
think of it as a jog through the park, punctuated with a few healthy
stretches and a contented feeling.
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If a particular person is
your cat's tension target, wait until your cat appears to be on the
emotional rebound before the two have an encounter. Be sure to mention
your cat's name as you converse with the person. But this encounter
shouldn't occur until the person also feels secure. You might want to hold
your cat on your lap for the first meeting, and make sure it is a brief
one.
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If your cat is especially
anxious, it may be necessary to sequester him. If space is at a premium, a
large dog carrier or crate with his creature comforts is an option.
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He can have supervised
forays in the rest of your house when you feel he can cope with the added
space. Remember: When a cat is frightened or insecure, he usually seeks
shelter in a secluded nook. It's important to realize that your cat is
frightened inside, and his aggressive behavior has been a symptom of this
feeling. You must make the decision to give him the solace he needs to
overcome this inner fear. Once your cat realizes that he is safe in his
designated space, it will become a source of comfort and security to him.
Don't fret if he's reluctant and agitated at the start.
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Your cat is affected by his
diet, so make certain it is not a source of agitation. Certain foods can
increase or decrease his emotional/physical comfort. Discuss your cat's
nutrition with your vet.
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If a drug is used as
auxiliary therapy, the behavioral program should be continued and modified
slowly even after the drug has been stopped.
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Do things to nurture
yourself. Any exercise or activity that you can do at home that tickles
your fancy will usually please your cat.
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If your cat has a setback,
don't despair! He's a lot stronger than he was before and he will quickly
recover from this incident.
The more confident you can be about his recovery,
the easier it will be for him to take the leap. Otherwise your insecurity
will influence his response. You don't want your cat to mirror your lack of
belief. Tell him he's getting better. Because with your help, he is!
The Complete Guide to
Understanding and Caring for Your Cat
contains more detailed information, diagnostic suggestions and
reconstructive therapy approaches. Buy it from
Carole's Cat Store.
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